Somewhere on backroads of Frederick County, MD

Sugarloaf, Frederick County, MD

Point of Rocks, MD side

Blackhill Park, Montgomery County, MD

My Only Dyno Run

This is the only dyno chart I ever got for my bike so far. This was done about 4 years into ownership and twiddling around on my SeatOfPants Dyno. I think I have it dialed in assuming I am  running drilled out stock mufflers.

Before and After

When I bought my 2004 HD Sportster 883XL Police Edition it looked like a blank slate, which is one of the reasons I liked it. Second picture is what it looks like now minus the slash cut "Scripted" HD mufflers. I now run stock mufflers drilled out 7/16".

Before













After

Useful Alternative Parts for the Sportster

Here are some alternatives to the HD parts for your Sportster.

Spark plugs

Autolite 4164 - Works just as well as the HD spark plug, but costs $1.50/each or so and is widely available in most auto parts stores.  Set the gap between 0.038" and 0.040".  The wrench for these spark plugs is not one of two standard spark plug wrenches.  It is either 13/16" or 18mm.  I am not sure if it is metric or SAE, but in this particular size either metric or SAE will work just fine.  Remember, you do not need a socket wrench for the Sportster!  A box wrench will work fine.

Champion RA8HC with '810' on the end of the box is most like the HD plug according to many posts on Sportster.org. The gap is .039" - .040".  Use a .038" dia. and a .040" dia. wires from a plug gap tool.  Set the gap so the .038" dia. gage goes thru easy and the .040"dia. gage will not go through.

Oil Filter

Pure One by Purolator PL10241
Pure One by Purolator PL25230 longer if you can use it
Mobil M1-102
Bosch 3330
Wix (& NAPA) equivalents of #51348 and 51315 (longer).
NAPA 1215
Ford (Autocraft) F1A or FL-1A

Air Filter

K&N replacement for the stock air box: HD-8834
K&N replacement for the HD Screaming Eagle air box: HD-0900 
K&N High flow air box kit with filter: RK-3929
Drag Specialties replacementfor the HD Screaming Eagle air box: 1011-0783

Stock Sportster Clutch Cable Chart

Stock Sportster Clutch Cable Chart from HD website can be found here.

Diagnostic Trouble Codes for '04 and later Sportsters

Be advised this only applies to the full serial data bikes, ie 04 and 05's

The IM (instrument module) is capable of displaying DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes).

Speedometer Self Diagnostics: The speedometer is capable of displaying and clearing speedometer, tachometer, TSM/TSSM and ICM/ECM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC).

1. 
   
   
   Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.
2. 
   
   
   Push odometer reset button in & hold.
3. 
   
   
   Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting sould illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word “diag” should then appear.
4. 
   
   
   Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.
5. 
   
   
   Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
   
   P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module (EFI) / (Ignition Control Module, 'Carbureted')
   S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
   SP = speedometer
   T = tachometer
6. 
   
   
   To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC’s the code will be displayed or the word “none” will appear if there are no DTC’s. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.
7. 
   
   
   Record the codes.
8. 
   
   
   If DTC’s are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
   NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run
   your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC’s again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.
9. 
   
   
   Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.
10. 
    
    
    Turn Ignition switch to OFF.
    

DTC FAULT CONDITION MODULE

B0563 Battery Voltage High TSM/TSSM
B1004 Fuel Level Sending Unit Low Instruments
B1005 Fuel Level Sending Unit High/Open Instruments
B1006 Accessory Line Overvoltage Instruments
B1007 Ignition Line Overvoltage Instruments
B1008 Reset Switch Closed Instruments
B1131 Alarm Output Low TSM/TSSM
B1132 Alarm Output High TSM/TSSM
B1134 Starter Output High TSM/TSSM
B1135 Accelerometer Fault TSM/TSSM
B1151 Sidecar BAS Low TSM/TSSM
B1152 Sidecar BAS High TSM/TSSM
B1153 Sidecar BAS Out of Range TSM/TSSM
P0106 MAP Sensor Rate of Range Error Carb
P0107 Map Sensor Failed Open/Low Carb
P0107 Map Sensor Open/Low EFI
P0108 Map Sensor Failed High Carb
P0108 Map Sensor High EFI
P0112 IAT Sensor Voltage Low EFI
P0113 IAT Sensor Voltage Open/High EFI
P0117 ET Sensor Voltage Low EFI
P0118 ET Sensor Voltage Open/High EFI
P0122 TP Sensor Open/Low EFI
P0123 TP Sensor High EFI
P0261 Front Injector Open/Low EFI
P0262 Front Injector High EFI
P0263 Rear Injector Open/Low EFI
P0264 Rear Injector High EFI
P0373 CKP Sensor Intermittent Carb
P0373 CKP Sensor Intermittent EFI
P0374 CKP Sensor Not Detected Carb
P0374 CKP Sensor Synch Error EFI
P0501 VSS Low Carb
P0501 VSS Low EFI
P0502 VSS High/Open Carb
P0502 VSS High/Open EFI
P0505 Loss of Idle Sped Control EFI
P0562 Battery Voltage Low Carb
P0562 Battery Voltage Low EFI
P0563 Battery Voltage High Carb
P0563 Battery Voltage High EFI
P0602 Calibration Memory Error Carb
P0603 EEPROM Failure Carb
P0603 ECM EEPROM Error EFI
P0604 RAM Failure Carb
P0605 Program Memory Error Carb
P0605 ECM Flash Error EFI
P0607 Converter Error Carb
P1001 System Relay Coil Open/Low EFI
P1002 System relay Coil High/Shorted EFI
P1003 System relay Contacts Open EFI
P1004 System Relay Contacts Closed EFI
P1009 Incorrect Password Carb
P1009 Incorrect Password EFI
P1010 Missing Password Carb
P1010 Missing Password EFI
P1351 Front Ignition Open/Low Carb
P1351 Front Ignition Open/Low EFI
P1352 Front Ignition Coil High/Shorted Carb
P1352 Front Ignition Coil High/Shorted EFI
P1353 Front Cylinder No Combustion EFI
P1354 Rear Ignition Coil Open/Low Carb
P1354 Rear Ignition Coil Open/Low EFI
P1355 Rear Ignition Coil High/Shorted Carb
P1355 Rear Ignition Coil High/Shorted EFI
P1356 Rear Cylinder No Combustion EFI
P1357 Intermittent Secondary Front EFI
P1358 Intermittent Secondary Rear EFI
U1016 Loss of ICM/ECM Serial Data Instruments
U1016 Loss of ECM Serial Data, Vehicle Speed, Vehicle Inhibit Motion or

Powertrain Security Status TSM/TSSM
U1064 Loss of TSM/TSSM Serial Data Carb
U1064 Loss of TSM/TSSM Serial Data EFI
U1064 Loss of TSM/TSSM Serial Data Instruments
U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial data Carb
U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial data EFI
U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial data TSM/TSSM
U1255 Missing Message at Speedometer EFI
U1255 Serial Data Error/Missing Message EFI
U1255 Serial Data Error/Missing Message Instruments
U1255 Serial Data Error/Missing Message TSM/TSSM
U1300 Serial Data Low Carb
U1300 Serial Data Low EFI
U1300 Serial Data Low Instruments
U1300 Serial Data Low TSM/TSSM
U1301 Serial Data Open/High Carb
U1301 Serial Data Open/High EFI
U1301 Serial Data Open/High Instruments
U1301 Serial Data Open/High TSM/TSSM

-----------------------

AFR – Air Fuel Ratio

ATS – Air Temperature Sensor

BAS – Bank Angle Sensor

CCM – Cruise Control Module

CKP – Crank Position Sensor. The CKP generates an “AC signal” which is sent to the ECM where it is used to reference engine position (TDC) and speed.

DTC – Diagnostic Trouble Codes

ECM – Electronic Control Module. (The Computer) Computes the spark advance for proper ignition timing and fuel control based on sensor inputs (from CKP, MAP & TP sensors) and controls the low-voltage circuits for the ignition coils and injectors. The dwell time for the ignition coil is also calculated in the microprocessor and is dependent upon battery voltage. The programmed dwell feature gives adequate spark at all speeds.

ECT – Engine Coolant Temperature. Sensor also controls the cooling fan relay that provides 12 Vdc to the fans.

EFI – Electronic Fuel Injection

EFP – Electronic Fuel Pump

ET – Engine Temperature sensor

FI – Fuel Injectors

FPR – Fuel Pressure regulator

IAC – Idle Air Control actuator

IAT – Intake Air Temperature sensor

ISS – Ion Sensing System…detonation detection

MAP – manifold Absolute Pressure sensor. The MAP sensor monitors the intake manifold pressure (vacuum) and sends the information to the ECM. The EMC then adjusts the spark and fuel-timing advance curves for optimum performance.

TP – Throttle Position Sensor

TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)

VE – Volume Efficiency

VSS – Vehicle Speed Sensor. Used as an input for idle speed control

============================================================

Here is another and possibly more up to date version

============================================================

04-07 HD DTC Codes and Activation

---

These will also work on the 07 & 08 bikes. There are additional codes for the 08 bikes not listed here but are listed in this same section in another post.

These apply to 04 and later bikes with the serial bus.

The IM (instrument module) is capable of displaying DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes).
Speedometer Self Diagnostics: The speedometer is capable of displaying and clearing speedometer, tachometer, TSM/TSSM and ICM/ECM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC).

1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.

2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.

3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word “diag” should then appear.

4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.

5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted)
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer

6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC’s the code will be displayed or the word “none” will appear if there are no DTC’s. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.

7 - Record the codes.

8 - If DTC’s are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC’s again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.

9 – Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.

10 – Turn Ignition switch to OFF.

On models not equipped with a tachometer "No Rsp" will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected.

"No Rsp" will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure.

Also if the code set is a historic code (not a constant light) after 50 start and run cycles of at least 30 seconds each in duration, the light will extinguish itself as long as the error hasn't occurred again.
If it were a current code, the light would remain lit while running.

--------------------------

DTC FAULT CONDITION MODULE

"BUS Er" Serial data bus shorted/low/open/high
B0563 Battery Voltage High TSM/TSSM
B1004 Fuel Level Sending Unit Low Instruments
B1005 Fuel Level Sending Unit High/Open Instruments
B1006 Accessory Line Over voltage Instruments
B1007 Ignition Line Over voltage Instruments
B1008 Reset Switch Closed Instruments
B1122 Right turn output fault
B1131 Alarm Output Low TSM/TSSM
B1132 Alarm Output High TSM/TSSM
B1134 Starter Output High TSM/TSSM
B1135 Accelerometer Fault TSM/TSSM
B1141 Ignition switch open/low
B1151 Sidecar BAS Low TSM/TSSM
B1152 Sidecar BAS High TSM/TSSM
B1153 Sidecar BAS Out of Range TSM/TSSM
P0106 MAP Sensor Rate of Range Error Carb
P0107 Map Sensor Failed Open/Low Carb
P0107 Map Sensor Open/Low EFI
P0108 Map Sensor Failed High Carb
P0108 Map Sensor High EFI
P0112 IAT Sensor Voltage Low EFI
P0113 IAT Sensor Voltage Open/High EFI
P0117 ET Sensor Voltage Low EFI
P0118 ET Sensor Voltage Open/High EFI
P0122 TP Sensor Open/Low EFI
P0123 TP Sensor High EFI
P0131 Front 02 sensor low (lean)
P0132 Engine running rich
P0134 Front 02 sensor open/not responding
P0151 Rear 02 sensor low (lean)
P0152 Rear 02 sensor high (rich)
P0154 Rear 02 sensor open/not responding
P0261 Front Injector Open/Low EFI
P0262 Front Injector High EFI
P0263 Rear Injector Open/Low EFI
P0264 Rear Injector High EFI
P0373 CKP Sensor Intermittent Carb
P0373 CKP Sensor Intermittent EFI
P0374 CKP Sensor Not Detected Carb
P0374 CKP Sensor Sync Error EFI
P0501 VSS Low Carb
P0501 VSS Low EFI
P0502 VSS High/Open Carb
P0502 VSS High/Open EFI
P0505 Loss of Idle Sped Control EFI
P0562 Battery Voltage Low Carb
P0562 Battery Voltage Low EFI
P0563 Battery Voltage High Carb
P0563 Battery Voltage High EFI
P0602 Calibration Memory Error Carb
P0603 EEPROM Failure Carb
P0603 ECM EEPROM Error EFI
P0604 RAM Failure Carb
P0605 Program Memory Error Carb
P0605 ECM Flash Error EFI
P0607 Converter Error Carb
P0661 Intake solenoid low/open
P0662 Intake solenoid high/shorted
P1001 System Relay Coil Open/Low EFI
P1002 System relay Coil High/Shorted EFI
P1003 System relay Contacts Open EFI
P1004 System Relay Contacts Closed EFI
P1009 Incorrect Password Carb
P1009 Incorrect Password EFI
P1010 Missing Password Carb
P1010 Missing Password EFI
P1351 Front Ignition Open/Low Carb
P1351 Front Ignition Open/Low EFI
P1352 Front Ignition Coil High/Shorted Carb
P1352 Front Ignition Coil High/Shorted EFI
P1353 Front Cylinder No Combustion EFI
P1354 Rear Ignition Coil Open/Low Carb
P1354 Rear Ignition Coil Open/Low EFI
P1355 Rear Ignition Coil High/Shorted Carb
P1355 Rear Ignition Coil High/Shorted EFI
P1356 Rear Cylinder No Combustion EFI
P1357 Intermittent Secondary Front EFI
P1358 Intermittent Secondary Rear EFI
U1016 Loss of ICM/ECM Serial Data Instruments
U1016 Loss of ECM Serial Data, Vehicle Speed, Vehicle Inhibit Motion or Power train Security Status TSM/TSSM
U1064 Loss of TSM/TSSM Serial Data Carb
U1064 Loss of TSM/TSSM Serial Data EFI
U1064 Loss of TSM/TSSM Serial Data Instruments
U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial data Carb
U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial data EFI
U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial data TSM/TSSM
U1255 Missing Message at Speedometer EFI
U1255 Serial Data Error/Missing Message EFI
U1255 Serial Data Error/Missing Message Instruments
U1255 Serial Data Error/Missing Message TSM/TSSM
U1300 Serial Data Low Carb
U1300 Serial Data Low EFI
U1300 Serial Data Low Instruments
U1300 Serial Data Low TSM/TSSM
U1301 Serial Data Open/High Carb
U1301 Serial Data Open/High EFI
U1301 Serial Data Open/High Instruments
U1301 Serial Data Open/High TSM/TSSM


2006 models with 02 sensors (Dynas)

P0131 Front 02 sensor lean for any length of time
P0151 Rear 02 sensor lean for any length of time
Above codes can also be set if 02 sensor fails.


-----------------------

AFR – Air Fuel Ratio

ATS – Air Temperature Sensor

BAS – Bank Angle Sensor

CCM – Cruise Control Module

CKP – Crank Position Sensor. The CKP generates an “AC signal” which is sent to the ECM where it is used to reference engine position (TDC) and speed. Home position established by taking readings off the 22 teeth on the alternator rotor.

DTC – Diagnostic Trouble Codes

ECM – Electronic Control Module. (The Computer) Computes the spark advance for proper ignition timing and fuel control based on sensor inputs (from CKP, MAP & TP sensors) and controls the low-voltage circuits for the ignition coils and injectors. The dwell time for the ignition coil is also calculated in the microprocessor and is dependent upon battery voltage. The programmed dwell feature gives adequate spark at all speeds.

ECT – Engine Coolant Temperature. Sensor also controls the cooling fan relay that provides 12 Vdc to the fans.

EFI – Electronic Fuel Injection

EFP – Electronic Fuel Pump

ET – Engine Temperature sensor

FI – Fuel Injectors

FPR – Fuel Pressure regulator

IAC – Idle Air Control actuator

IAT – Intake Air Temperature sensor

ISS – Ion Sensing System…detonation detection

MAP – manifold Absolute Pressure sensor. The MAP sensor monitors the intake manifold pressure (vacuum) and sends the information to the ECM. The EMC then adjusts the spark and fuel-timing advance curves for optimum performance.

TP – Throttle Position Sensor

TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)

VE – Volume Efficiency

VSS – Vehicle Speed Sensor. Used as an input for idle speed control

Carburetor Jet Sizes and Part NumbersCarburetor Jet Sizes and Part Numbers

Needles

N65C needle: 27094-88 - This is the stock needle in the 1988 1200 Sportster and is a popular replacement for the stock needles in rigid mount Sportsters.

N9EY needle: 28027-04 - this is the stock needle in 2004-2006 Sportster (US 49 state models)


Pilot Jets

pilot jet 48: 27165-90
pilot jet 45: 27170-89

pilot jet 44: NOT an HD P/N Can be ordered from Drag Specialties DS-289317 Custom Chrome also
handles 44 jets in lots of five, #640763

pilot jet 42: 27171-89
pilot jet 40: 27281-92
pilot jet 35: 27117-88

Main Jets

main jet 200: 27105-88
main jet 185: 27185-90
main jet 180: 27114-88
main jet 175: 27090-89
main jet 170: 27115-88
main jet 165: 27116-88
main jet 160: 27152-89
main jet 155: 27154-89

Reassembling Front End

Here is a very useful set of directions to reassemble the front end on the Sportster. This is required after steering neck service and other instances when the fork tubes are removed from the triple trees. There is a very precise order in which things need to be tightened and not following that order can cause handling issues that did not exist prior to dis-assembly. The issues may be minor like a slight pull to the side or more severe like poor handling on uneven pavement.
The following list assumes that the fork tubes are perfectly straight and are exactly the same length. If not, then those things need to be addressed and are outside of the scope of this article. This also assumes the fork tubes are out of the triple clamps.
These instructions are provided from the wisdom of Steve Ellingson a.k.a. Crazy Steve of xl-list and are printed here with his permission. Thanks, Steve!
If the steering neck bearing adjustment is suspect begin at step 1, otherwise begin with step 3

1. Loosen the pinch bolt on the top triple clamp
2. Loosen the stem bolt, but don't remove it
3. Slip the fork tubes into the triple clamps and set the height exactly the same on both tubes. FSM recommends about 1/2" (11mm - 13mm)
4. Tighten the lower triple clamp pinch bolts to specified torque
5. Tighten the upper triple clamp pinch bolts to specified torque
6. Test fit the wheel axle. It should fit without having to force it. No binding at all should occur. If that's not the case go back to the beginning and start over
7. Install the wheel and torque the axle and axle pinch bolt to specs. Remember to torque the axle pinch bolt last.
8. Install the fender

If steering neck bearing adjustment is suspect follow these steps, otherwise you are done - test ride it.

1. Loosen lower triple clamp pinch bolts
2. Adjust fallaway of the front end per the FSM if needed
3. Tighten the stem pinch bolt to proper torque per FSM
4. Tighten the lower triple clamp pinch bolts to proper torque per FSM
5. Test ride 

If you run a fork brace, follow the instructions provided by the fork brace manufacturer for installation and install it after you are satisfied with the test ride results.

Sportster Steering Neck Service

My Owners' and Service manual calls for this service every 10K miles. What this amounts to is removing the steering neck bearings, cleaning the old grease out of them, re-packing them with new grease and re-assembling the steering neck. I have done this a few times now, but this time I decided to document this procedure. It is not as scary as it may seem, but neither is it as simple as I have described in the previous few sentences. There are a few tips and tricks to know to make the whole thing go smoothly. So, let's get started.

Lifting the bike

First thing that needs to be done is the bike needs to be lifted on the lift in such a way as to have more weight on the front. This is important as we will be removing the front fork and wheel assembly off the bike and therefore lightening up the front part of the bike significantly. If the bike is off balance without the front end it could fall off the lift backwards. I tied the bike to the lift with ratchet ties at the front down tubes, but still, why tempt faith. Put the lift as much towards the rear as possible.

Preparing the Front End for Removal

Now that the bike is securely lifted off the ground with more weight to the front it is time to prepare the front end for removal. This involves removing all the tings that can possibly prevent the front fork and wheel from being removed as a unit. Basically, this amounts to brake caliper(s). I first pressed on the caliper towards the wheel so as to compress the pistons a little and create a small gap between the brake pads and the rotor. This makes both the removal and installation much easier. I then  used a 12pt 10mm socket to undo the brake caliper mounting bolts. I have an all-flex stainless steel braided brake line on my bike, so I just undid the brackets holding it to the steering shaft on the bottom and the top tripple clamp on top freeing it completely from the fork assembly. I used wire ties to secure the caliper to my engine guard (see picture).

Now the only things attached to the front end that are also attached to other parts of the bike are on the handlebars. I could have taken the handlebars and the headlight, both of which are attached to the top triple clamp. That's OK, because I will be dropping the forks from that top clamp anyway, so we are ready for the next step.

Removing the Front End

This is when it gets interesting and the way you lifted the bike will be tested. First loosen the triple clamp pinch bolts as well as the center stem pinch bolt (T45 torx bits are used for that). Then I used a 24mm socket to remove the stem bolt from the top triple clamp. This bolt is not the actual stem, but rather a short bolt that is used for adjusting the neck bearings by tightening or loosening the fit of the bearings in the bearing cups. Once the top triple clamp pinch bolts and the center adjustment bolt are off there is nothing holding the fork tubes to the handlebars. In fact the top triple clamp can now be taken off and laid aside hanging by the wires and throttle cables. Now the top bearing is accessible (see pictures).

I took the top bearing out and loosened the bottom triple pinch bolts now. After the lower pinch bolts are loose you can slide the whole triple clamp down the fork tubes. This is the time to be careful and make sure the balance of the bike on the lift is good without the front end. Once that triple clamp is lowered the whole front end ends up in your hands separate from the rest of the motorcycle. With the bottom triple clamp out pops the bottom bearing (see pictures).

At this point I rolled the front end away, put it aside and removed the bottom bearing from the stem. The bearing hung up a little on the fork lock hole (this hole is only present in rubber mounted models). It required a little gentle persuading with a plastic mallet, but it came off without much coaxing.

Cleaning the Bearings

I used gasoline in a small plastic container to wash the bearings one at a time. I soaked them in gas for a few minutes, then took them out and spun the rollers all around, soaked some more and spun some more until there was no trace of old grease left on the metal. Then I let the bearings air dry. The clean bearings looked like this:

Repacking the Bearings With Fresh Grease

I used Harley Davidson Wheel Bearing Grease, but I am sure any old wheel bearing grease will work just fine. I put the dry, clean bearings in the tub of grease and worked them with my fingers (I use nitrile gloves when working on the bike) until I felt that they were loaded up.

Reassembling the Front End

Reassembly is pretty much reverse of the disassembly. I first put the lower bearing on the shaft, then slid the whole front end back into the frame, then put the top bearing on, then the top clamp, then the center bolt just to catch the threads on the shaft. Once everything was held together loosely, I gently lowered the lift ever so slightly to force the front end into its place by having the front wheel touch the ground lightly. I then made sure everything was aligned and tightened the center bolt to where it just stopped turning (almost no torque on it yet). At this point the front end is almost home where it belongs. I now put more weight on the front tire by lowering the lift a little more. After making sure everything is where it's supposed to be, I lowered the lift to the point where most of the weight was on the front wheel, but the bike was still level and not leaning on the kick stand. At this point I followed the service manual's torque specs for tightening the center bolt. First tighten to 20 ft*lb, then release and tighten to 130 in*lb. Then tighten the pinch bolts to 33 ft*lb.
That pretty much did the trick.
It may be a good idea to check the fork alignment and read this just to make sure the fork is all straight and even.

Drilling out Idle Mixture Screw Plug

If you have a bike where idle mixture screw is capped with a metal plug, you will need to remove this plug in order to have access to the idle mixture screw. Having access to idle mixture screw is one of the first needs a new Sportster owner (assuming 2006 and older bike) will have. These bikes have been set to idle way too lean and one of the first adjustments most pleople make is idle mixture adjustment. You can see directions for adjusting your idle mixture here, but first you will need to remove that pesky plug that EPA mandates be there from the factory. So, without further ado, the removal of the idle mixture screw plug.

1. Remove the carburater. Actually, it is possible to do this without removing the carburetor. To do that you need to pop the carburetor off the intake manifold and tilt it up so the idle mixture screw plug is easy to reach. I did not disconnect the throttle or choke cables for this. I just popped the carburetor off the manifold and tilted it up so I could get to the bottom with a drill bit
2. CAREFULLY drill a small hole through the plug. The size of the hole should be such that a drywall screw would need to force its way into it with its threads. I suggest using a hand drill here or be very careful not to go through the plug too quickly. There is not much to the plug, it will yield easily, so take your time here and just slowly but surely make a hole through it without poking the drill bit much below where the actual idle mixture screw is.
3. Get a one inch or longer drywall screw and screw it into the hole you just made a few threads. Maybe just deep enough to gently touch the screw underneath and back out half a thread from there.
4. With a pair of pliers pull on the screw while holding the carburetor fast with your other hand. You may need to work the pliers back and forth a bit, but the plug will pretty quickly come out with the screw.
5. Discard the plug and screw.

Bleeding brakes the old fashioned way

1. Make sure there is enough brake fluid in the master cylinder
2. press brake lever
3. open the bleeding screw while keeping brake lever depressed
4. allow brake fluid and air bubbles to escape into the catch pan
5. close the bleeding screw
6. release the brake lever
7. go to step 1 unless no bubbles came out in step 3
8. Top off the master cylinder and close it up

Rear Turn Signal Relocation Kit for Dyna

I bought this kit because it was: 1) cheaper than the corresponding kit for the Sportster and 2) it included the laydown license plate bracket, which the Sportster item did not. There was only one caveat. The turn signal cans on the Dyna have different pitch of thread on them than do Sportsters'. Who knows why? Usually HD is pretty good about keeping parts the same as much as possible. Dyna and Sportster turn signals look the same and act the same, but have different thread pitch on the can to stalk interface. It is not a big problem if you know how to re-thread the stalks with a die. I bought the corresponding die at Sears and re-threaded the stalk in the relocation kit and the Sportster cans fit on there perfectly. The rest of the relocation was according to instructions and turned out very well. I needed to relocate the rear turn signals to use saddlebags with Easy Brackets. Here is the picture of the relocated rear turn signals.

Easy Brackets for Saddlebags

I used cheap throw over saddle bags for months before I decided that I hated how the throw overs kept slipping and sliding all over the place. I really needed some support brackets. I was not crazy about the permanent support brackets that remain on the bike when the bags are removed. I wanted a clean look when the bags were off. I found Easy Brackets to be a very good solution. Easy Brackets are support brackets that mount to the bike using posts in the rear fender strut. There is a keyed locking mechanism to prevent the brackets being removed from the bike without a key. A set of bags can be bolted to the brackets and then be removable using the bracket key. Once removed, the only thing that remains on the bike are the posts that are made of polished stainless steel and can serve as bungee posts. I ended up using the same cheap throw over bags I had to bolt to the brackets and it has worked out great. have a look in my gallery to see what they look like on the bike. Rear turn signal relocation is required. I used a turn signal relocation kit for a Dyna that incorporates a laydown license plate bracket.

Progressive Suspension Fork Springs

Suffice it to say that this along with the rear shocks is THE best upgrade you can make to your Sportster if you like to drive it sport bike style (as opposed to bar hopping).

Progressive Suspension Shocks

Suffice it to say that this along with the fork springs is THE best upgrade you can make to your Sportster if you like to drive it sport bike style (as opposed to bar hopping).

Arlen Ness Big Sucker air cleaner

 
I really like this air cleaner and I have been running it for about two years now. It replaces the "ham can" and is round in shape, so those who want to keep the stock look will not find it acceptable. Performance is great and the quality is top notch. The price is lower than Screaming Eagle air cleaner and it is on a whole other plane of quality, durability and performance. Screaming Eagle air cleaner for the rubber mounted Sportsters is utter junk. It does not breathe very well (at least compared to the Big Sucker), the filter develops holes within a few months, the backing plate is plastic (vs. cast aluminum in the Big Sucker) and HD does not stand behind the unit (90 day warranty and then you are SOL when the filter has holes in it). I had an issue with my Big Sucker filter that I was partially responsible for (some fuel spill into the filter) and Arlen Ness sent me a free replacement filter ASAP with no fuss whatsoever. Oh, and the filter itself on the Big Sucker is an oiled K&N type filter, the SE filter is some sort of dry medium that obviously does not hold up to normal use and does not breathe all that well. So, stay away from the SE air cleaner. Consider Arlen Ness and also Nallin Hurricane, which is a bit more expensive, but from all accounts a superb piece of gear. See the Hurricane description on NRHS (Nallin Racing Head Service) here.

You can find a review I wrote on this product here

Superbrace Fork BraceSuperbrace Fork Brace

This was a pretty good upgrade and at the end of the year SuperBrace usually runs discount group buys, so the price can be a little lower than usual. I got one of these deals back in 2004. I like the brace itself. It is very well made and is very simple and sturdy. I bought it because I occasionally experienced some shimmies while going over rough surfaces and leaning at the same time. The brace took care of most of these issues. This is not a must have item, however and the shocks and fork springs need to take priority as far as suspension and handling of the bike go. Still, I am glad I have the brace and would recommend it.